Whether your Garden Tower is actively growing right now or resting under a tarp in the garage, seed starting season is here—or, at least, almost here. 

For gardeners in frost-free zones like mine, that means we're already planting and sowing. For those in colder climates, it means it’s time to start planning, shopping, and preparing for the season ahead.

The beauty of the Garden Tower is that it can handle a wide range of planting methods, from scattered wildflower seeds to carefully placed transplants.

Below, I'll walk you through three approaches to seed starting with your tower, along with timing guidance for different growing zones.

Three Ways to Plant Your Garden Tower

Approach #1: Scatter Sowing: Flowers, Herbs, and Leafy Greens

The simplest way to add life to your Garden Tower is to scatter sow seeds directly on the surface. This works beautifully for flowers that germinate easily and fill in gaps between larger plants.

The process is straightforward: scatter the seeds over lightly loosened soil (on top or in the pockets), press them in gently, and water. 

I do this throughout the year in my towers. 

Right now, I have alyssum and yarrow blooming, creating habitat for early spring pollinators, and adding color while my vegetables establish and approach transplantability. 

If you have plenty of spring rain, as we do here in SoCal, no need to water. Even easier! 

Some seeds will take, some won't—and that's fine because the ones that do will fill the tower with life.

This method also works perfectly for cilantro, which is a favorite herb in my household that grows very well in a Garden Tower. Sometimes I'll plant it into pockets, but more often than not, I'll just shake out seeds or shake out old, dead plants as I clean them out onto the top of the tower. 

That becomes my cilantro spot, and it reseeds itself season after season with minimal effort, all while providing support for beneficials and pollinators when I forget to harvest it (and it bolts).

Spring is also an excellent time to scatter sow leafy greens at the top or around the edges of your tower. 

Regardless of your zone, as soon as you have the opportunity, I think all of us yearn for more nutrition and fresh harvests from our gardens. Arugula, spinach, lettuce, and even endive are perfect candidates for this approach. 

If you're trying to grow full heads of lettuce, you can prune back and eat some of the smaller duplicates as they grow, or continuously harvest the outer leaves so they stay at a manageable size.

Scatter sowing also works well for ground covers like clover or flowering legumes that can feed your soil while looking beautiful.

 It's low-effort, low-stakes, and a great way to experiment with new varieties.

Approach #2: Intentional Seeding: Corms, Sets, and Direct Sowing

The next level up is intentional seeding, which is when you plant specific things in specific pockets of your tower. This method requires a bit more planning, but the results are rewarding.

This approach is how I've grown ranunculus, onions, carrots, garlic, and so much more in my Garden Towers.

You're placing corms or sets with purpose, giving them the right depth and spacing to thrive.

For ranunculus, I plant the corms in fall/winter and wait for them to emerge in late winter and spring (and I always end up leaving one behind accidentally, which is a great cue for when I should plant others). 

For garlic and onions, I tuck sets into the pockets, knowing they'll grow steadily over the months ahead. 

You can also direct sow seeds this way. Radishes, carrots, lettuce, and other quick-growing crops can go straight into the pockets without starting them elsewhere. 

Just make sure the soil is moist, and the conditions are right for germination.

Approach #3 Seed Starting Elsewhere: The Main Focus

For most gardeners, especially those in colder zones, the real work of seed starting happens outside the Garden Tower and inside in the warmth.

This is where you're starting tomatoes, peppers, brassicas, and other crops under grow lights or in a protected space before transplanting them into the tower once conditions are right.

Now is the time to get your ducks in a row. 

Gather your supplies: seed starting trays, starting mix, grow lights if you're using them, and labels. 

Look at what you want to grow and start mapping out your timeline.

For colder zones, I'd wait a month or two to start your peppers or tomatoes. You want them to be the right size for transplanting when your last frost date passes, not too small and not so large they're root-bound and stressed.

For gardeners in Zones 9 and 10 like me, you can go ahead and get started right now. 

While you could technically direct sow tomatoes and peppers into the tower, it's wiser to start them under a grow light in warmer, more controlled conditions. This gives them an optimal window to reach a healthy size before transplanting.

What to Grow in Your Garden Tower

Because the Garden Tower is a container system, I'd steer away from indeterminate tomatoes. They'll grow too large and unruly for the space. 

Instead, focus on determinate or bush varieties that stay compact and productive.

For tomatoes, think about patio varieties, or smaller determinants that won't overwhelm the tower. 

Cherry tomatoes like Sungolds are a fine exception, just plan to trellis them and prune regularly. 

For peppers, compact varieties like jalapeños, serranos, or small bell peppers are perfect (but few pepper varieties get out of hand and most are a great pairing for the Garden Tower).

Beyond that, leafy greens, herbs, and quick-growing crops like radishes and lettuce thrive in the Garden Tower.

Brassicas like kale and chard also do well, as long as you give them enough space either at the top, or with intentional gaps in the pockets.

Feed Your Soil With Legumes

As spring opens up, consider planting some legumes in your Garden Tower to naturally feed the soil. 

Peas are a great choice and won't overwhelm the tower like fava beans might, and flowering legumes like lupines are another favorite of mine. They're beautiful, nitrogen-fixing, and attract pollinators while enriching the soil. I've loved growing lupines in my Garden Towers.

They add height, color, and ecological value without taking up too much room or requiring constant attention.

Timing for Different Zones

If you're in a frost-free zone, your Garden Tower can be actively growing right now.

I currently have chamomile, yarrow, and even some mysterious cherry tomatoes volunteering in mine. 

You can plant and sow year-round, adjusting for heat and cold as needed.

For colder zones, your tower might be resting right now, but that doesn't mean you can't prepare. Use this time to plan what you want to grow, order seeds, and start thinking about when to begin your transplants. 

When spring arrives, you'll be ready to fill your tower with life.

Wrapping Up

Seed starting with your Garden Tower is as flexible as you want it to be. 

Scatter sow flowers, herbs like cilantro, and leafy greens for effortless reseeding and continuous harvests. Intentionally plant corms and sets for structure. Start transplants elsewhere for a strong, productive season.

No matter your zone or your approach, the key is to plan ahead, start when the timing is right for your climate, and enjoy the process.

Whether your Garden Tower is growing right now or waiting for warmer days, let the rhythm of seed starting connect you to the season ahead.

FAQs

Can I start seeds directly in my Garden Tower?

Yes! Many seeds can be started directly in your Garden Tower.

Leafy greens, herbs, flowers, radishes, carrots, and other quick-growing crops do very well when direct-sown into the tower’s pockets or surface soil.

Warm-season crops like tomatoes and peppers are usually better started indoors and transplanted once conditions are right.

Are peat pots good for starting seeds?

Peat pots can work, but they aren’t the best option when starting seeds. They tend to dry out quickly, cause mold, and can restrict root growth if they don’t break down fast enough. 

For an eco-friendly alternative, invest in high-quality, reusable starting trays for healthier growth.

What temperature is best for starting seeds?

Most seeds germinate best between 65-75°F. Warm-season crops like tomatoes and peppers prefer the higher end of that range, while leafy greens and herbs can tolerate slightly cooler temperatures. Consistent warmth is more important than hitting an exact number.

What kind of soil should I use for starting seeds?

Use a light, well-draining seed-starting mix rather than garden soil. Seed-starting mixes are designed to hold moisture without compacting, which helps delicate roots establish quickly. Avoid heavy soils that can stay wet and suffocate seedlings.

How wet should soil be when starting seeds?

The soil should be evenly moist—similar to a wrung-out sponge—but never soggy. Too much water can cause seeds to rot or encourage mold, while soil that dries out completely can stop germination altogether. Gentle, consistent moisture is the goal.

When starting seeds indoors, how much light do I need?

Seedlings need 12–16 hours of bright light per day. A sunny window usually isn’t enough on its own, so grow lights placed a few inches above the seedlings are recommended. As plants grow, raise the lights to prevent stretching and keep growth compact.

How can I prevent mold when starting seeds?

Good airflow and proper watering are key. Avoid overwatering, use clean containers, and ensure your seedlings aren’t crowded. A small fan on low or regularly opening a humidity dome can help keep air moving and reduce excess moisture that leads to mold.